Demna Gvasalia, head of design collective VETEMENTS interviewed for Carine Roitfeld’s CR Fashion Book.
“We talk about what’s cool all the time, even though I hate this word. It’s so uncool to use it, but there’s really no substitute.” As the head of the Vetements design collective, Demna Gvasalia has steadily gained a reputation for being the coolest designer in fashion right now. On his search for “cool,” he never looks much further than his own circle of cool friends. They are his personal focus group, in his recent traveling audiovisual presentation they’re the actual voices behind his clothes (he attached speakers to the collection so that it could tell a story), and this same circle became the cast models that walked in his Fall 2015 show at Paris’s famous gay club Le Depot.
Gvasalia thought it important that his Fall collection be shown in a nightclub setting and Le Depot was on a short list of those with an atmosphere and price that was right. “There aren’t so many locations left in Paris that aren’t trying to be chic and posh. They let us make a party after the show for free, so we were able to get friends from Berlin and Moscow to D.J. to play techno and hardcore music that does not exist in Paris.”
Not trying to be chic, is perhaps the foremost overriding theme of Vetements. The best way to describe the aesthetic he’s invented is to list what it isn’t—it’s non-seasonal, non-thematic, non-gender specific, and non-luxury. Though some fabrics on the more luxurious side are used, Gvasalia steers clear of anything that looks visually luxurious or expensive.
Hair_Olivier De Vriendt
Manicure Brenda Abrial
Photo Assistant_Ruddy Lepoultier
Assistant Editor_Livia Rossi