2014 is closer getting to an end, and we’d like to take a moment and highlight what we defined as the top trending topic of the year. As it’s easier for us, we went for five designer’s brands; each one perfectly representing a concept or an idea we felt close to during this time.
We start mentioning one of our most long-lasting and always acclaimed designers, which namesake brand celebrates 20 years in fashion this year:
Risk and sickness could be the key words to say for his 2014. He went down to the core of human being, to his proper reality, touching the deepest instincts, with both his men’s and women’s collections: Nižinskij and his modern concept of ballet was the focus Rick Owens pointed to, precisely the master interpretation of ‘Afternoon of a faun’. All the sexual clues has to be read in their rawness; the designer deliberately talked us about his aim to go perverse and provocative with his work.
Raf Simons went emotional this year. He showed the world his more intimate part, getting back to his teenage memories and literally collecting them, in a bit anarchic mood board of patches and collages, writings and bleach splashes on vivid colors. For FW14-15, he made a collaborative collection with the artist and friend Sterling Ruby (look at the coincidence: RSSR), taking their chaotic and punk influences in fashion, while for SS15 he focused all on his personal life, going down to something that was really part of his sphere: his parents kissing in the field, a younger Raf’s portrait taken from his friend and long-term collaborator, the stylist Olivier Rizzo, a detail of a roller coaster; all things recalling a significative flashback for the designer. In a recent interview we released on Journal, Raf himself talks about this freedom of expression he is aiming to, ‘creating something together like in a family’, never missing the importance of tradition.
Shayne Oliver created HBA (acronym for Hood By Air) from the bottom, from something that was just music, fun and friends; now the brand should be acclaimed as 2014’s strongest revelation. And not just because BoF declared the brand (together with Marcelo Burlon’s County of Milan and Virgil Abloh’s Off-White) one of ‘streetwear’s new guards’, taking streetwear on a upper lever of conversation and reason in fashion, but also for the massive focus Hood by Air has always had on the matter of genders. When does a garment come for a men or for a women? That’s definitely not the point for Shayne Oliver and his team. He just want to create something people want to dress up with, making a statement just putting a long-sleeved t-shirt on and a pair of zipped-up denim.
We could not miss to insert in our year’s highlights Yang Li’s dreamer and the massive power concealed behind the idea. This young brand is already mature in its concept, taking a crude melancholy in fashion. Yang Li himself declared to make fashion for ‘somebody with a story and a dream’, and he never miss to express his thoughts in a detached but poetic way, creating statements like ‘so destroy the expected’, ‘our aim is wakefulness, our enemy is dreamless sleep’, ‘alone and unafraid’, ‘bore dom’, ‘silk': something that stills in your mind, something you can just lock on to. Yang Li lifts us to something higher, to be read in a romantic key, beyond our social persona.
During 2014, this new french unidentified collective released two collections and made its first show, and it’s already doing a lot of fuss inside the system. ‘Skirts you don’t wear, a trench that is not there’, their sense of fashion is pretty much about evoking the real definition of clothing categories and the creative concept coming out from an idea; they could be defined sincere lovers of garments. Vetements‘s approach is really analytic and mental, and their collection couldn’t be the same without the attitude and the individuality of the modern wearer they have in mind.