HIGHLIGHTS MEN’S SS15

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Fashion week is over, and here we are with the best highlights from Men’s Spring/Summer 2015 collections in Milan, Paris and Florence.

GIVENCHY

‘Exploded Plane’ by Dutch artist Paul Veroude was literally hang on Halle Freyssinet’s ceiling, disclosing us Riccardo Tisci’s aim of bringing together balanced opposites for Givenchy men’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection: engineering and art, as severity and romance. He chose to go back to his dark and ecclesiastical side, excluding last seasons’ extravaganza and pointing to a pure and mature core.

Read the full review here.

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ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

New creative director Sebastien Meunier showed us his own interpretation of Ann Demeulemeester for Spring/Summer 2015. And it was pretty about an arty motif on romanticism. Poetry was preserved, in a naif and refined way, and all had this weightless aura.

Read the full review here.

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RICK OWENS

‘Afternoon of a Faun’, Nijinsky’s scandalous-for-the-time debut, and the story behind that – the faun running after the nymph, and then masturbating with the scarf she accidentally lost behind her – is set to be the interpretation of the whole show: Rick Owens aims to make a balance between the paganism and the primitive instincts humans have and the sophistication of the couture, the ballet and the world we all live in.

Read the full review here.

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NEIL BARRETT

Neil Barrett show opened up with minimal weightless whiteness; and kept on going with a tight marble-like palette. He showed us a really precise and polished collection, with an accurate reference to what he defined as the perfect ideal of male beauty: Roman classicism.

Read the full review here.

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RAF SIMONS

Raf Simons recalled his personal history and created a touching personal and emotional collection; you could literally feel the electricity and the shadows at the same. Youth and adulthood meshed up together in a pretty autobiographic but not at all languid collection, innovative in its truly clearness.

Read the full review here.

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MARCELO BURLON COUNTY OF MILAN

Marcelo Burlon County of Milan‘s first show has burnt one of Pitti Uomo’s nights: two motocrossers performing on the ramp before the start and at the end of it, and a literal gang of hot guys and girls dressed up in a mixture of motocross, skateboard, basketball, numbers, writings and symbols things. Marcelo Burlon chose to show us his family, and made them wearing a massive sporty collection, as a modern real tribe.

Read the full review here.

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MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

Spontaneous mismatch of apparently casual pieces, deconstructed at their best: that’s could be the synopsis of Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2015 men’s show. Spontaneity and disorder has been enhanced to something to be shown and celebrated as normality.

Read the full review here.

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Y. PROJECT

“I’m living in Paris and I’m surrounded by kids of the 80′s and 90′s. They all raved into adulthood and are now full on workaholics, respected, nailing every single step of their lives. Nevertheless, at times, it’s clear that they have not forgotten the explosive charges of their past.” Glenn Martens is now at his second collection for Y/Project, and he seems to have set his own direction for the brand.

Read the full review here.

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JULIUS

Tatsuro Horikawa took this image of a laser beam colliding, reflecting and at the end straggling, and the layering idea coming from that, and transposed everything on clothes. Polygons, anatomy and construction as the key for [ p r i s m ; ]. A sharp silhouette declined in total black and total white, leather highly present as it’s Julius trademark, with visible sewed cuts – every piece of clothing is to be made of many different parts, as the reflection created by a bent light.

Read the full review here.

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KRISVANASSCHE

‘Illusion’ was the massive writing on the invitation, and a baroque trompe-l’œil appeared on the background of the catwalk: for Spring/Summer 2015 KRISVANASSCHE‘s hybrid trademark has been explored on its youthful rebellious way, and clean-face models showed us the confidence just kids becoming adults could have.

Read the full review here.

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D. GNAK

Kang Dong Jun matched up sci-fi references with basketball culture, creating an hybrid contemporary mood where streetwear elements are combined with sartorial and tailoring cues. As a dark army, models rolled down the runway in white chalky lipstick and in volumes as fluid as architectures, structured and essential at the same.

Read the full review here.

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Posted by ANTONIOLI.EU

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