FAUN, the name Rick Owens impressed on his Spring/Summer 2015 collection, is clearly a clue of a change of direction and mindset in his creative approach. ‘Afternoon of a Faun’, Nijinsky’s scandalous-for-the-time debut, and the story behind that – the faun running after the nymph, and then masturbating with the scarf she accidentally lost behind her – is set to be the interpretation of the whole show: Rick Owens aims to make a balance between the paganism and the primitive instincts humans have and the sophistication of the couture, the ballet and the world we all live in.
This idea has been recreated through what he showed us: alien-like models totally painted in acid green, blue and lilac tones and dressed up in vests reminding of cave paintings, the leitmotif of the nymph’s scarf translated in floating veils hung on tops, tailored jackets flung on waists and backs, and a pale and soft color palette (quite unusual for Rick Owens) recalling Bakst’s work for Ballets Russes. Footwear too has to be highlighted: Adidas Springblades’s soles are as flat as faun’s feet.
An arty and organic collection, with a contrasting duality at its heart. A fresh and modern interpretation of the ballet world.
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