‘Exploded Plane’ was waiting for us inside Halle Freyssinet. This massive created-exclusively-for-the-venue artwork by Dutch artist Paul Veroude was literally hang on the ceiling, disclosing us Riccardo Tisci’s aim of bringing together balanced opposites for Givenchy men’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection: engineering and art, as severity and romance. He chose to go back to his dark and ecclesiastical side, excluding last seasons’ extravaganza and pointing to a pure and mature core. Cues recalling his first collections for the french maison has been showed: sport references, to be put together with the tailoring (black jacket over a black tie and a white shirt) and the school uniform ones, a strict monochrome palette, embroidery made in pearls recreating a sea crust idea and a opulent floral effect (Riccardo Tisci’s favorite flower, gysophila, appeared and cross covered the collection). Together with vigorous male models in black hairnets walked also some cult models in heavy cat-eye make-up – Adriana Lima, Saskia De Brauw, Irina Shayk and Candice Swanepoel just to mention a few – dressed up in sexy sheer dresses revealing bondage-like underwear, instantly recalling the designer’s italian origins. Back to the roots, and back to black. Looking forward for what has to come.
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