Margiela’s house teamed up to mold the elegance of english gentlemen in the grace of femininity. The usual white cotton stitches has been replaced by the original men’s Harris tweed logo, and typical codes of the male british wardrobe has been transformed to fit with a refined and discreet female elegance and silhouette. High-neck leather collars has been taken from men’s brogues, and certain dresses seemed to be taken directly from the shape of classical men’s trousers. Striped suit linings has been used to create dresses, then layered using original 1930s laced embroidered dresses.
Classic lines were literally deconstructed – and Margiela really do that well – but the garments never missed their shapes, thin leather belts were shown to underline feminine shapes. Leather and metallic Tabi boots completed the outfits, some of these extended and becoming over-the-knees, highlighting that kind of perversive touch leather gave to the whole collection, the same really slight perversity concealed behind British formalities.
Posted by ANTONIOLI.EU