Metallic noise alongside Schubert’s ‘Piano Trio in E Flat’ created the atmosphere for this little more than usual gloomy and shadowy Haider Ackermann Fall/Winter collection. As his usual, he meshed menswear and womenswear, but never missing that kind of sensuality that has to be on women’s. Marlene Dietrich-like models, with penciled thin and arching eyebrows and heads concealed under thigh black graphic bandages, walked extremely slow down the hall of Palais de Chaillot, full of layers and drapes, all in a less bright but not less sumptuous palette of grey, browns and neutral shades. Textures have been taken directly from men’s, as the massive houndstood teeth, and the shoulders were quite important. Ackermann showed us a changed-in-his-mind aesthetic, more intimate and restrained, more slouchy and masculine. Also evening wear – extra long column dresses with high turtlenecks – showed just a prudish slice of chest, enough to create a magnetic and seductive aura around these languid girls.
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