Gareth Pugh set up to think as an utilitarian anarchic for his eponymous Fall/Winter 2014-15 show. Showing off a tribe of post-apocalyptic nomads, in organic and almost casual fabrics wrapped around the bodies, creating voluminous sculptural tridimensional silhouettes with a quite strict palette. Plastic sheet, industrial PVC, sheepskin, blanket, mirrored leather, all in white, cream and neutral tones, as these wintry surrenders would have taken all rubbish left around to clothe, draping, their figures. Matthew Stone, as is usual, contributed creating the ambient, white noise and bright highly-contrasted lights, making the women’s presence even more perverse and extreme. An artistic reference has to be named for the idea behind Gareth Pugh FW14 collection: ‘Terrain’, from the Terrain series, is one of the documentary portrait Jackie Nickerson’s took while in Zimbabwe, depicting a woman with the face hide behind a plastic sheet. Also the massive hats seem to come directly from Jodorowky’s masterpiece, ‘The Holy Mountain’, and the full-sized wind-up doll detail is from one of early Gareth Pugh’s show.
Clinical sharpness, with squared-off shoulders, and tons of metallic sequins, goes for the insane disco-ball scene the british designer has already pointed to, and also a Japanese-inspired attitude of bandaging the body has to be noticed: the stand-out PVC bustier coercing the torso while totally revealing the flesh behind it.


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